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EXCLUSIVE: THE INDIAN VOYAGE OF MICHAEL FIELD
Rained off
by Michael Field
It rained hard last night and in the process further saturated the reputation of the grandly named M.A. Chidambaram (MAC) Stadium, headquarters of the Tamil Nadu Cricket Association and the Madras Cricket Club - the other MCC.
And, as it happens, the MCC is my home for three weeks and, somewhat unexpectedly, I have found myself cheek-by-jowl with the upper pantheon of India cricket, headed by Saint Sanchin Tendulkar himself.
The squad was divided into India Red, India Green and India Blue and for four days the sides pitted themselves at each other in day- night one dayers.
To the hardened cricket fan - which India offers several tens of millions of - this competition was something of a contrivance and a bit of a trial run for the ICC Championship international series which begins later in the month - and to the north. The problem for MAC is that it has a reputation for losing good cricket time to the rain. It is plainly a jinx for Chennai can go for weeks without rain, but put on cricket and the heavens open.
Just outside the solid concrete circular stadium a small Hindu temple valiantly tries to order things with the higher bodies so that the game can get underway. And the day before a large squad of police arrive to ensure the "bad characters" stay away. It may mean something, or not, as the case may be, but they locked up the MCC's member's area which had access out to the pitch.
The ground has an aging resident dog, Manju, who spends his days on the oval, watering it in key places and generally trying to keep the crows from doing too much damage. He lies down in the sandy ground (the stadium is a short distance from Marina Beach) and eyes the crowd. The teams put on a bit of a media show as Manju puts his head down and snoozes. A partly paraplegic boy, unable to walk normally but given to moving in a kind of crab like movement, shows up and works out with the team, scuttling across the pitch to chase balls. Several media outlets feature him in later reports.
The day of the first match brings in a decent crowd - although far from capacity. Easily the biggest turn out is in the cheap seats, facing the setting sun. They are loud and educated, watching every ball and offering a noisy critique of ever stroke played.
Chennai cricket fans get to see the giants of cricket and warmly welcome the opportunity. Tendulkar's every movement is followed and commented upon. He performs with seemingly effortless fours and sixes and a couple of centuries.
In the members seats many children and teenagers fill out places. For a group of teenage girls old hands like Tendulkar are plainly not worth taking notice of. But certain young stars looking toward them brings on loud squeals and excited pointing.
Between overs the big screens show ads for the Tamil versions of Bollywood movies - eliciting excited cheering from crowds who plainly divide their time between cricket and films.
So much make-up cricket over the following days means fewer spectators - although millions continue to watch it live on television.
Last night was the final - between Blue and Red. Perhaps the signs were already there when Tendulkar was out for a duck, although teammate Virender Schwag knocked up an undefeated 90.
But by 5pm it was plain nature was going to have the last word.
The heat had built during the day; it is so hot here now the local newspapers are writing up temperature stories. The monsoon is a week away or so. Preliminary thrusts are underway and in the afternoon great clouds began forming over the city and then, on sunset, unleashed a barrage. The opening raindrops were surprisingly big and hefty. Early drops flicked up big clods of earth and dust before everything began to get wet.
MAC, being of a simple nature, cannot handle rain like this. Groundsmen - and lots of grounds women - got the covers out, but on the stadium edge waterfalls formed off the roof and the place was awash with water. The game was, in the end, abandoned. Happily too the temperature dropped across the city as the rain set in for the night.
Next morning though the sun was up, and the blistering heat of south India returns.
-- published on February 4, 2007 --
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