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EXCLUSIVE: THE INDIAN VOYAGE OF MICHAEL FIELD
Politics and liquor - a state with no beer
by Michael Field
No one in India is going to take pity on politicians. Any kind of political office is a guarantee of prestige, and in a country given to high levels of corruption, extreme wealth. The one source of amazement in India is that they have a prime minister in Manmohan Singh who is so distinctly and obviously different from the rest of the political school he swims in. Truly the exception and along the way, probably the most intellectual and best educated head of government anywhere in the world today.
But he is the exception.
For all that, here in the south various kind of election fevers are jostling for attention along with dengue fever and mysterious African ailment chikungunya. A place like Chennai though is overwhelmed with public media; huge billboards, constant advertising and endless promotions. Everywhere you look there is a huge face of Amitabh Bachchan selling anything from a movie to toilet paper, or the vacuous Aishwarya Rai. You can even get her on a sari.
So getting noticed when running for office in the Chennai Corporation requires some effort. The current approach is to hire a couple of autorickshaws and adorned them with billboards and flags. Then you hire a marching band and hire some peons to enthusiastically march behind - giving the impression of followers and success.
Now it cannot be said that one particular woman campaigner nearly ran me down with her show on the eve of polling - the truth is everybody with a set of wheels in Chennai has offered several puja in anticipation of being able to run down the foreigner. So this politician was just in a long queue of people who - happily for my sake - managed to fail to run me down.
As she and her little band of noise makers - competing with the diwali fire work exploders who make North Korea look pacifist - wended their way through the lanes, no one was looking. Or taking a blind bit of notice. The candidate, standing on her auto doing Winston Churchill impersonations, was overwhelmed with excitement when she spied me taking her photo. Party strategists no doubt worked late into the night trying to figure the polling implications of all this.
Others came by later, complete with flags, loud stereos and assorted hangers-on, but it was impossible to determine whether anybody was getting noticed above the clutter of an Indian street.
Those that did notice though were the hapless people of Tamil Nadu who like alcohol. From 5pm yesterday and for six days the entire state is observing prohibition. Crowds gathered outside the ineptly named "Wine Shops" (ask for a Pinot Noir from the southside of the vineyard, picked late in the season and you will receive an uncomprehending stare) to snatch the last supplies.
They sell almost exclusively rum and whiskey - with some beer on the side. Most customers drink it straight from the bottle. These tipplers were yesterday getting in emergency supplies - and nearby the police waited. The New Indian Express this morning reports that police in Chromepet were nabbing those whose needs were the greatest, including one Ayyappan and Venu Kumar who left the Wine Shop with 240 quarter bottles of brandy and 240 quarter bottles of rum.
The story didn't say what the police did with the seized booty.

-- published on February 18, 2007 --
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